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11 - Xi'An

  • Writer: Eric Youd
    Eric Youd
  • Apr 1
  • 4 min read

Hi Everyone!


Rolling into Xi’an by train, one thing immediately stood out—nuclear power plants… everywhere. I’m not exaggerating when I say it felt like I passed 20 of them on the way in and out.


China is going all in on nuclear. They already have over 50 reactors operating and dozens more under construction, with plans to keep scaling hard over the next decade. The goal is to reduce reliance on coal and push toward long-term carbon neutrality. Whether you’re for it or against it, one thing is clear—you can literally see the ambition out the train window.



I arrived in Xi’an with basically one plan: see the Terracotta Warriors.


That was it.


But then I met a wonderful woman named Jing-er, and just like that, the night turned into something way better than anything I could’ve planned on my own.



Muslim Quarter & The Silk Road Legacy


She took me straight to the Muslim Quarter, and wow—this place hits you.


It’s loud, chaotic, full of smoke from grills, and absolutely packed with food stalls. It feels alive in a way that’s hard to describe.


This area is home to the Hui people—Chinese Muslims whose roots go back over a thousand years to the Silk Road. Traders from Persia and Central Asia came through Xi’an (which was the eastern end of the Silk Road), and many settled here, bringing Islam with them. Their descendants are still here today, running shops, cooking food, and keeping that culture alive.


So yeah… China and Islam might not be something you immediately associate together, but here it is—alive and thriving.



The Food (I Was Not Prepared)


The star of the night?


Trouser belt noodles.


Also known as biang biang noodles, these things are ridiculous—in the best way. We’re talking hand-pulled noodles so wide they look like a belt, covered in chili oil, garlic, and spices.


Messy. Spicy. Absolutely incredible.


We had dumplings too, which were great, but honestly… they didn’t stand a chance. The noodles stole the show.



Bell Tower Nights & Street Scenes


We wandered over toward the Bell Tower, and once again I saw something I’d noticed in Beijing too—groups of women dressed in traditional outfits doing full-on photo shoots.


Not casual photos either—these are full productions. Poses, lighting, outfits, everything. It’s like semi-pro street photography happening everywhere, and it adds this really cool energy to the city at night. Ancient backdrop, modern expression.



The Main Event – Terracotta Warriors


The next day, it was time.


I grabbed a taxi using Amap—cheap, easy, and about a third of the time compared to taking the bus. No haggling, no guessing prices, just book and go. Perfect.


Then you walk into Pit 1…


…and yeah. Wow.


Rows upon rows of life-sized soldiers, stretching out in formation as far as you can see. It’s one of those places that actually lives up to the hype. You feel it the moment you walk in.



Who Was This Qin Guy Anyway?


This entire thing exists because of one man: Qin Shi Huang.


He was the first emperor to unify China around 221 BC. Before him, China was a collection of warring states. He brought it all together, standardized systems, and laid the groundwork for what China would become.


He was also obsessed with immortality.


So naturally, he ordered an entire army to be built to guard him in the afterlife.


Each soldier is unique—different faces, ranks, details. This wasn’t symbolic. This was meant to be a real army, just… for the next world.


Which is kind of insane when you think about it.



Pit 2 & 3… Let’s Be Honest


I’m going to say it.


Pit 2 and Pit 3?


Kinda lame.


After Pit 1, it’s just hard to compete. They’re smaller, less visually impressive.


But the exhibition hall more than makes up for it. That’s where you get right up close to the warriors and can actually appreciate the detail, the craftsmanship, the individuality of each one. That part was awesome.



The Tomb I Skipped (No Regrets)


My ticket also included access to the emperor’s mausoleum.


I skipped it.


At first I had a bit of FOMO, but then I learned what it actually is right now: basically a large mound of dirt covered in trees. The real tomb hasn’t been excavated.


So yeah… I got over that pretty quickly.



Exit Gauntlet: Grifters & Taxi Chaos


Leaving the site was… something else.


First wave: food vendors, souvenir sellers, people pushing all kinds of random items.


Relentless.


Then came phase two: taxi drivers trying to get me into their cars.


Also relentless.


But I stuck with Amap, booked my ride, and walked straight past all of them. Fixed price, no surprises, no games.


I’ve stopped feeling bad about saying no. It becomes this weird loop:


“No.”

“No.”

“No.”


Feels like talking to a 7-year-old.


And honestly… I might have been on the other side of that conversation more times than I care to admit when I was a kid. Mom knows.



Next Stop: Chongqing


And just like that, Xi’an was done.


Next up: Chongqing.


Ever heard of it?


No?


You should.


Apparently it’s one of the biggest cities in the world… and from what I’ve seen so far, it looks like something straight out of a cyberpunk movie.


Let’s see what that’s about.




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©2024 by Eric Youd.

“In a world where you can be anything, be kind.” ― Clare Pooley

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