Gyeongju feels like stepping into a completely different version of Korea.

After the coastal buzz of Busan, I arrived here and immediately slowed things down — starting with renting a bike for ₩15,000 and setting off to explore what is essentially an open-air museum of ancient Korea.

And I mean that literally.

Hills… That Aren’t Just Hills

One of the first things you notice in Gyeongju is the landscape — these big, smooth, rolling grassy mounds scattered all over the city.

They look like hills.

They are not hills.

They are ancient burial tombs from the Silla Kingdom, which ruled Korea for nearly 1,000 years (57 BC – 935 AD). These tombs belong to kings, queens, and high-ranking elites, and many of them remain unopened to this day.

Unlike Egyptian pyramids or stone mausoleums, these tombs were built by stacking layers of stone and earth into massive rounded mounds. Inside, they often contain incredible artifacts — gold crowns, jewelry, weapons — sealed away for over a millennium.

So yes… you’re casually biking past what are essentially 1,500-year-old royal graves like it’s just another Tuesday.

The National Museum

I made my way over to the Gyeongju National Museum, which — incredibly — is completely free.

The main draw for me was seeing the Silla gold crowns and royal treasures, and they absolutely delivered. These crowns are insanely intricate — thin sheets of gold shaped into tree-like structures and antler forms, symbolizing power, nature, and spiritual connection.

They don’t even look real. More like something out of a fantasy game than something crafted over a thousand years ago.

If you’re ever in Gyeongju, this museum is a must. Free, fascinating, and full of artifacts that genuinely make you stop and go, “how is this this old?”

Enter: Nicole from Venezia Italia (Venice)

Back at the hostel, I met Nicole — a wonderful traveler — who instantly upgraded my Gyeongju experience from “solo bike tour” to “buddy adventure with snacks.”

She generously shared some of her Asian pear with a few of us, which is apparently the fastest way to make friends in a hostel setting.

We got along great and, very efficiently, decided to team up that same evening to explore all the major landmarks after dark, when everything is lit up and (supposedly) at its most beautiful.

But before that, she introduced me to something I didn’t know I needed.

The Tea House That Would Not Let Us Leave

Nicole took me to an authentic Korean tea house — the kind of place that feels like it exists slightly outside of time.

We sat down and were served yellow ginseng tea along with a variety of small traditional treats. It was peaceful, quiet, and honestly one of the most relaxing moments of the trip.

And then… we tried to leave.

Every time we even hinted at getting up, the owner would appear, wave her hands, shake her head, and pour us more tea.

No words. Just a firm, gentle, “you are not done yet.”

At some point we accepted that escape was not an option and leaned into it.

Eventually — and I mean eventually — she allowed us to go… but not before gifting each of us a handmade tea towel.

An absolute legend.

Gyeongju by Night

That same evening, fueled by tea and mild captivity, Nicole and I set out to explore Gyeongju after dark — biking and walking through its historic sites as they lit up under the night sky.

And this is where the city really shines.

Bridges, palaces, and ancient structures all glowing softly, reflected in calm water, with barely any crowds compared to daytime. It felt calm, cinematic, and just… right.

We wrapped up the night at the Jungang Night Market, which turned out to be an absolute food jackpot.

Here’s how it works:

You can buy a full dish from any vendor for about ₩7,000, or — and this is the move — pay ₩12,000 and get four partial servings from any vendors you want.

So obviously I chose chaos and variety.

It was fantastic. Different flavors, different dishes, and zero regrets.

Things the Camera Didn’t Fully Capture

That tea house… wow.

The owner’s home was filled with artwork her husband had made and old photos of them as young lovers. I didn’t film much because it felt like stepping into someone’s personal story — and honestly, it deserved to just be experienced.

The night market atmosphere.

The video only caught a glimpse, but the live music, performers, and overall vibe were incredible. Every corner had something going on, and the energy was just fun.

T-Money card = life hack.

Public transit in South Korea becomes ridiculously easy once you have a T-Money card. It works on buses, subways, and pretty much everything local. I still had mine loaded from Busan, which meant when I had to catch an early bus out of Gyeongju to the high-speed rail station, I didn’t have to think — just tap and go.

Traveling is stressful enough. Removing even one small friction point feels like a win.

Final Thoughts (and a Message to Nicole)

Huge thank you to Nicole — my partner in crime for a day — for the tea, the company, and turning Gyeongju into something way more memorable than it would have been solo.

All the best, my friend.

“Se ti perdi, segui il cibo… e magari un canadese un po’ confuso con una bici.”

(If you get lost, follow the food… and maybe a slightly confused Canadian on a bike.)

Next stop: Seoul.

Time to see what the big city has in store.